Winter is always a hard time for me, so I try to find some escapes to warmer lands. In the past it was Iran, Morocco, India or Spain. In Iran I really liked the fact that they don’t celebrate Christmas, because I don’t like the hustle and bustle around it. Stress and over-concern that nobody really appreciates. 

So this year we decided to go to Jordan, mainly because of the relatively cheap airfare. The arrangements around Covid were changing rapidly and we were terribly stressed that we would test positive and be put in a hospital somewhere in Amman. We almost didn’t leave because of that. But in the end everything worked out well and we arrived in Amman, the capital, on December 23. 

Madaba

The first city we visited was Madaba. We got there in a rental car, driven by T., as he has a valid Egyptian license in Jordan. Not elsewhere in Europe. We had the whole house to ourselves in Madaba, but it was bitterly cold. The first time I tasted coffee with cardamom, which was terribly strong and I didn’t like it at all. But it was the last coffee I didn’t like in Jordan. Then I fell in love with cardamom. The atmosphere was so gloomy and it was raining, so at that moment, I actually didn’t think the trip was such a good idea. 

Amman

We didn’t really like the capital, it was so noisy. We had booked a free tour, but the tour guide cancelled it after 5 minutes because he said Christmas time is stressful for him. We went to see the citadel, which was supposed to be the highlight of the city. There were a lot of Indians there.

Ma’in Hot Springs 

Ma’in is a mesmerizing hot spring waterfall resort situated right next to the Dead Sea. We had to pay admission, but it was a beautiful experience. Toubar was there talking to the locals and we got invited to lunch. It was interesting that people were steaming there. 

Dead Sea

There were no cheap places to stay around the Dead Sea, so we stayed at the Dead Sea Spa Hotel, which was kind of a fancy hotel, but with no guests. We were a little stressed that they wouldn’t put us up in the same room because we weren’t married. But in the end they ignored it and didn’t even wonder about it. The dead sea was a really cool experience! The water is so thick that you float on it like you’re on a mattress. We had the whole beach to ourselves. Otherwise, the road around the Dead Sea was not very interesting. We looked across the whole time and had long conversations about Israel and Palestine. 

Karak

Kerak is a castle that is recommended to visit, but it is really just a ruin, not very interesting. I’m glad we didn’t spend the night there. 

Dana Biosphere

At Dana Biosphere Reserve we slept in a campsite where we had a hookah and met a German who spoke Arabic. Toubara found this impressive. We slept under about 4 blankets and were still cold. It was very windy. But in the morning we had a beautiful view and a hike. On the way, we ate classic falafel and schawarma. We didn’t meet anybody. 

The strange thing about Jordan is that you have to pay admission practically everywhere. It is forbidden to enter most natural places without a guide. This made me realize that we really have a lot of freedom in Europe and can go wherever we want. 

 

Petra – Wadi Musa

Wadi Musa is the valley in which the rock city of Petra is located. This monument is one of the seven wonders of the world, and rightfully so. I didn’t have high expectations for this place, but I have to admit that the day in Petra was definitely one of the most beautiful days of 2021. The whole city was stunning, big, magical. With beautiful views and pathways. We came back with peace and happiness in our souls. 

Aqaba

Visiting Aqaba wasn’t planned, but it was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. The city was really cool, with a local vibe. We also liked the beach we visited and we also went snorkeling. Unfortunately though, all the coral was dead, so it was rather sad to see. We bought some snorkels and goggles at a local cafe, but they were in the JUNIOR size so they were quite annoying. Toubara kept falling off and I thought it was funny. In the evening we drove to Wadi Rum to see Sami at the campsite. He was already nervously waiting for us because we had cancelled his accommodation the night before. 

 

Wadi Rum

Wadi RUm is a really gorgeous desert, the only thing that annoyed me there was the organized tours again, which were practically impossible to go without. Accommodation there was cheap, but we had to buy a jeep tour to go with it, which was actually worth nothing. But those were the rules. We were in the jeep with two Czechs, who I had a pretty good chat with. Especially the girl. I thought they were a couple, but they were just friends. We took them to the nearest intersection and they hitchhiked to Aqaba. We took the Dessert Highway about 400 km to Jerash. It was funny that their highway was actually a four lane road with cars going both ways, but no roadblocks in between. It kind of looked like an airport runway. 

 

Jerash

Jerash surprised us in a very positive way. We hadn’t planned to visit it at all, but the Romanesque temples and amphitheater really impressed us. We had the worst accommodation in Jerash (shower didn’t work, bathroom leaked) but we survived. It was the kind of hotel that looks luxurious on the outside but nothing really works in it. 

 

New Year’s Eve

We celebrated the new year in Amman with our favorite dessert, Kunafa. If I take anything away from Jordan, it’s my love for this dessert. In Amman, we came across a place that specializes in this. There was a couple sitting next to us where the man had no respect for his wife. He didn’t even look at her the whole time. They just impersonally ate their desserts and left. It made us quite sad. There were no fireworks in all of Amman and when it was midnight, Toubar was just out getting a beer. I was a little sad that night, but I don’t know why either. I guess it was because I always say I don’t like to celebrate things, but now I actually thought it was a pity.

 

And that’s it!! We loved Jordan and Jordanians loved us back. Especially because Ahmudi spoke Arabic and they love Egyptians (Mosri – as they call them in Arabic)