Cyprus has never really been my plan to visit but thanks to Terka who was really preaching it as a place which is a “New Mallorca” for bikers, I had it in the back of my mind for some time. At first, I didn’t really have time to go his November, because I thought I wlil be very busy and will not have any money to go, but of course I changed my mind and once I saw that the winter is approaching, I got my tickets and came. 

And it definitely was one of the important milestones for me, when I realised that I really couldn’t run away from my problems in my head. I can’t run away from the emptiness and unfulfillment I feel inside me. I feel like I have something creative inside me that I haven’t discovered yet that I don’t know how to do. I left and felt alone. I felt empty, and everywhere I went I would run into the questions “What are you doing in your life?” And I couldn’t answer clearly. My response was always something like, “I’m trying to figure it out” or “That’s a hard question right now because I really don’t know right now.” But I take it as part of the journey. I’ve come a long way from, for example, last year, and I feel like this slump is just another milestone that will be important for my future development.

LARNACA 

I arrived in Larnaca and hitched a ride in a car driven by a small plane pilot and his guide. They drove me to McKanzie beach where I found a super beautiful cafe on the coast and worked there. It felt like a dream that I changed context so quickly. I was surprised how quickly it got dark. I was picked up at 5:00 by Michalis, who I spent the next four nights with. A local musician who’s active in 3 bands. He also had a black dog, Rabi, with his tail cut off. Rabi was very shy but happy to be there. The next day Michalis took me for a car ride to the local car wash “Red Panda” where we picked up coffee. Cappucino Fredo. Interestingly, people in Cyprus don’t go for a morning walk, they go for a morning car ride. They have no need to walk. The car trend in Cyprus is so widespread that it just doesn’t occur to anyone that it would be better to go by bike.

 

Pano Lefkara

I rented a bike and went for a ride. I realized how rushed I made my decision again, because there aren’t many places to bike around Larnaca. BUUUT I discovered a village called Pano Lefkara, talked to a local woman, had wonderful piece of pastry and in general enjoyed my time. I didn’t meet any single cyclist.

When I got back, I went to see Michalis and his band play traditional music at a traditional taverna. I felt sad and cried. I was writing in my diary and a gentleman who spoke Czech and studied at the CTU in the 90s took turns coming to see me. He spoke really good Czech. He told me an interesting thing. He said he was now a manager in a company, but that it took him over 20 years to get to that position. Consistency is the key. And this theme ran through me all the time in Cyprus. I can’t achieve anything if I’m not consistent. We went out for fish soup afterwards with Michalis and his actor friend. It was really huge. I was thinking about how much I need to just do things rather than just think about them. “You don’t reach anything just by thinking, you have to start doing”, said a friend of Michalis from his band and it’s true. I thought about it a lot after that.

Ayia Napa

The next day I cycled around the coast and the journey was actually pretty awful. Roads and I didn’t really get anywhere. The spot Ayia Napa should be the most hyped place in Cyprus and it probably was and looked like that. Shops, restaurants and people who just were not smiling. Everything ready made for tourism. Then I swam in the sea for the first time and wanted to go back. I felt a bit empty and sad. Again it came back to me that no matter where I am, I carry these internal feelings with me. I waited over an hour for a bus and it wouldn’t take me because it was full. They just waved at me and rode further. I didn’t know what to do and I was a bit desperate. Luckily I decided to hitchhike afterwards and Raed from Palestine stopped me. He turned out to be a very important person, who offered me also later a lift to Paphos. We had together later an amazing schwarma and I was just really positively surprised by his big heart. He was just so genuinely pure and good person. His business was about reparation of air conditioning and fridges around the island. He had a guy from India in the car with him who was helping him. I could feel the power of intention really working. I wished so badly that someone would stop the van and I actually got a lot more than I wanted.

George from far away

Salt Lake and Dog Beach

The next day Michalis and I went to the beach and he told me about what was important to him in life and what made him happy. That happiness comes from within. Everyone has to find it for themselves and it’s just important to do things and look for things. That’s something I feel like I’ve lost a lot of lately. I’m not motivated to do and seek things.
I met Valentin that day. He pulled up in my car and wanted so badly to take me to Lazaris cafe, which I had looked up on the corner in the square. We went to dinner that night at the restaurant where he used to work and they had super good fresh fish and seafood. But suddenly he started acting weird and the whole encounter didn’t seem so good anymore. We talked to the owner of the restaurant. But what I found most interesting was the dessert we ate. It was chestnuts and pumpkin in sugar. I didn’t like it very much, but I thought it was interesting. Before the restaurant I went after the whole day of working for a run around the Larnaca’s Salt Lake and it made me sooo joyful. Listened to slow music and felt very present.

Larnaca Port neighbourhood houses 

 

PAPHOS with GIRLsss

The next part of this journey was clearly separate. I got from Larnaca to Paphos very easily thanks to Raed. He offered to take me there in his car. At first I thought it was a bit unnecessary that he would drive 2 hours there and back, but then I remembered that we are supposed to take in what the universe has to offer and said I would go then. On that trip, we talked mostly about Iraq, how both his parents died there, Palestine and Israel, how hard it is to find a Muslim wife, and generally the importance of standing up for your views. He bought me another kebab in Larnaca because he said that was the only place he was sure was halal. Elsewhere, he said, they add pork to the meat. I didn’t have that meal until the next night, but it was soooooo goooood. He was happy when I mentioned that I really liked it. In Paphos I had wine and waited for Terka and Baru to arrive. Then I met them at their accommodation and slept on the couch. I had terrible dreams. The next day I was back at the same cafe, went for an afternoon run and listened to podcasts about Iraq. I discovered how much I dislike running in unsprung shoes and also in the heat. I wasn’t too happy about it and was looking forward to another day of cycling again.

Paphos Forest (Hunting Season)

The first ride I went on was with Terka to Paphos Forest. It was great and at one point I was in a completely happy mood. I felt that the activity was getting all the negative emotions out of me. Stopping in cafes, talking to local hunters. When we got back, I spent the whole evening alone at my apartment ( Georgios’) and felt pretty lonely. It made me realize how much better it was to share that time and day with someone than to just be alone. But at least I watched a lot of videos about Iraq, which kind of filled my need to learn about all that was going on and happening in that region.

Chill & Bath Loop

The next day we went together with Baru and again I just felt so much better. I was thrilled with how excited Baru was and realized that I needed to practice gratitude more and more again. I noticed how much I am taking things I have. Gratitude for what I already have and also for the life I’m living. That my anxieties are mostly about passivity, but otherwise I have nothing to worry about at all. When we were swimming, I wanted to swim out to the island, but Terka scared me with turtles and sharks, so we came back.
In the evening we went for wine and got to know Baru better.

Donkey Loop

On the last day we went for what was probably the best ride for me. Unexpectedly beautiful scenery. Coffee in the mountains at the gentleman’s with Rex the wolf and then the best swimming at the beach with the local gang and the lady who couldn’t stop cleaning. We had iced nescafe and chill. In the afternoon we had more coffee at the Bean Haus, where we then got deeper into the structure of the place. Into how the future owner likes wars and finds them a good investment opportunity. We visited a motoring exhibition by an Austrian woman and Terka and I knew right away from looking at it that she was Austrian.

On the last day we had a loong day at the beach. Then pita with halloumi and tomato and then we flew home.

TAKEAWAYS from CYPRUS:
– Most common coffee type is Fredo Espresso or Fredo Cappuccino
– Men are STARING at you ALL THE time! Catcalling is very very common. It was funny but could be uncomfortable for some people
– They don’t go for morning walks but for morning drives with cars
– It is very very dry
– They love Greeks
– It’s not the best place if you are afraid of cars and roads
– Not the cheapest place – prices are the same like in Berlin
– Not really great food for vegans and not many “remote” beaches