LA PALMA – Isla Bonita

Since visiting Gran Canaria in 2020, I’d heard that La Palma is the island worth exploring—it’s much greener than the others, with stunning hikes and unique landscapes. Along the way, I’ve traveled to many beautiful places, so I wasn’t expecting to be wowed by the scenery. But I have to admit, La Palma was truly a wonderful experience—not just for the beauty of the island but for the slower pace of life, the connections we made with locals, and the peaceful way of living that felt so good.

Traveling with Cosma

This was our first time traveling with Cosma, and of course, we were nervous after hearing people say things like:

  1. “She’ll be traumatized.”
  2. “Are you going to give her a sleeping pill?”
  3. “Dogs can die on planes.”

These comments really made me doubt our decision, but bringing her along ended up being a milestone for us. Now, the idea of traveling with her no longer feels so scary.

When we arrived at Frankfurt Airport to check in, we found out our crate was too small for Cosma; she needed to be able to stand up and turn around, which wasn’t possible with the crate we had. We were tight on time, so I sent M. to find a larger crate in a nearby shop. After a while, and just as I started accepting that maybe we weren’t meant to go to La Palma, M. reappeared with a massive crate and Cosma, running toward the counter. The crate had been lent to us by a kind older man passing by on a bike, and M. gave him all the cash he had in thanks. We managed to get Cosma on the plane with her new crate and made it with zero cash on us—a familiar situation.

When we arrived, we were a bit tense, wondering how Cosma would be, but the sight of her crate wiggling from her excited tail was all we needed to see. She leapt out as lively as ever. The journey back was similar, except in Spain, the crate checks were more relaxed than in Germany, and there was no official “animal care” representative.

First run with Cosma – was so challenging to run on the sund but soooo beautiful! I was running and jumping like crazy with her on the top of the mountain.
Volcanic
I think Cosma thought that it was snow but this was actually salt – she was salivating a lot after but had fun
I loved to observe Cosma how curiously she is observing the world outside while riding the car. It’s so cuuute and beautiful! And she loves the wind in her face.
Nakey session in a mystical forest
Drinking water next to the cave appartmans

Living the Island Life

Islands are magical, and being on one with Cosma made it even more special. Everyone who saw her would smile and say, “Qué bonita.” I loved how everything slowed down, and we naturally synced with the rhythm of the days, waking up with the chickens and catching almost every sunset. This routine was incredibly calming for my nervous system. Just waking up and within minutes being in nature—it’s something I truly miss in Berlin, and I appreciate it more every year. In the city, I often feel like I’m not moving fast enough or don’t have an impressive career. But on the island, I found the space to feel comfortable in my pace, not weighed down by city expectations.

It’s paradoxical, though. While I crave a slower life, I’d feel lost without a permanent base. This trip gave me time to reflect on what’s next for me. I wonder if my path lies in exploring cultures, movement practices, yoga, or something else entirely.

This afternoon in Los Llanos was so magical – it was all foggy, rainy and wet. And quiet because of the siesta time. And so local
Tazarcote sunset with C.
Moon rising, sun going down – this occurence was accompanying us almost everys single day
Comedy show on Friday evening in Santa Cruz
Cueva Bonita – apparently must see of La Palma
Sent this picture to my friend Terka, since she just got a dog called Heidi )

 WEEKENDS on the GO 

I jsut loved the fact that we are so close to the nature and we can just literally every weekend go on some fun adventure. I also rented a bike for 2 days and got fine of 100€. For not having a helmet and having earphones in my ears.

This “Föhn cloud” is something that I will definitely not forget! So beautiful! Looked like snow and we could see i almost every single day from our house.
Walking down from Roque de los Muchahos – so beautiful to be so high up above the clouds
Veeery different landscape to the rest of the island.
Salt making area
We wanted to swim in a natural lake but it was too wild to swim.
Uwiiiiiiii, such a beautiful sunset after a crazy storm and fog

Food We Loved

My favorite supermarket is still Lidl, but on this trip, I reconnected with SuperDino, where everything seemed to cost more than 2€. Our first dinner was so filling that I actually ended up (sadly) getting sick from it—croquetas that were too oily to stomach. But I was glad to rediscover arepas, especially with eggs for the first time, and of course, the local papas arrugadas. I had tons of guacamole during those three weeks, which should last me for a while. M. joked that I’m “obsessed” with food, which is true, but I’m learning to accept this as a part of myself.

First restaurant that we tried. And ended up soooo full. But were very surprised by the quality of the red wine that we got for only 2€. I was actually planing on not drinking ANY alcohol, but didn’t work again. I think I will stop trying to make radical changes because they never seem to work because I am just so bad at rules and I feel that I have been all my life just restricting myself and having times of “being out of the control” combined with times of total restrictions that I my system is jut completely resigning on any rules that I try to introduce.
Croquetas, Fish croquetas, Papas arrugadas, arepa reina and wine. Doesn’t seem so much but I won’t forget this food for a long time.
Yes, we definitely got attracted to this bottle by its cover.
Definitely dish of the trip. Arepas with eggs <3
Chachapa with queso blanco – another Venezuelan dish that we loved eventhough the dough felt veeeery sweet. I think I wouldn’t choose it everyday but we were hungry so it felt good. And I also had PMS so the sugar was not too much.
Don Manuel in El Paso—a café I truly grew attached to. I loved watching the locals come in for their DESAYUNO OFFER: a bocadillo and cortado for just €3.50. It was heartwarming to see how the girls working there knew everyone’s orders by heart and how they took special care of the elderly. People would stop by, chat for a few minutes, and then head out. I enjoyed observing the “waves” of customers arriving—around 8:30 in the morning, again at 11:30, and then around 2 p.m. I especially loved the buttery croissant with tortilla and spending time there, pretending to be productive. It’s such a special place. ❤️

Astronomy

La Palma has some of the world’s lowest light pollution, making it a dream for sky-gazers like M. Seeing the Milky Way so clearly and observing a comet with the naked eye was incredible. I also saw the moon rise in a way I’d never seen before and got acquainted with different constellations. We visited the Roque de los Muchachos Observatory, where we learned how telescopes work. It was fascinating, especially hearing our guide explain how the temperature inside the telescope is kept cold to match the night air, so the mirrors don’t take too long to adjust. The whole experience was otherworldly, and the telescopes had a surreal, almost post-apocalyptic sound to them.

Wrote to my notes: “After the Moon, Venus is the brightest object in the sky, and I learned to search for her at twilight. Her steady glow feels like an anchor in the shifting dusk, reminding me that even in a world full of change, some things remain constant. It’s a quiet comfort, like a presence I can always rely on. What else serves as that anchor in your life, the thing you turn to when everything else is in motion?”
Magic Telescope that we visited from the inside during our tour.
It was so beautiful to observe the moon in its full cycle during those weeks spent in La Palma
Telescope catching gama rays – this is what I learned during the tour

  

Camping

Though it’s officially forbidden to camp freely on La Palma, it’s generally okay if you set up after dusk. We first camped in a forest near a national park and then on a quiet roadside where morning workers greeted us as they came to clear fallen trees. I loved that second night—the sky was so dark, and the comet was crystal clear. Strangely, I felt constantly hungry, but I chalked it up to PMS since my period arrived soon after. Our double mattress and sleeping bags were cozy, and I actually felt more comfortable in the tent than in our rental, where a nightly mouse visit often disrupted our sleep.

The first weekend after we were kicked out of a national park with the warning that dogs weren’t allowed, we set up camp in the middle of a forest. Around 9 p.m., we heard a lot of kids and saw them moving around with flashlights. It was a bit nerve-wracking, and I worried they’d find us and report us, leading to a fine, since wild camping is forbidden there.
Cassumi so cute <3
Second time camping in the middle of a road. But this was the place where we saw a comet!
Huel is always a safe option – this time I gave again a chance to chicken mushroom and after more than a year, it didn’t make me feel like I want to vomit it all out. 🙂

Our Little Home

We chose an affordable, humble place to stay—a tiny house in the garden of a German-French couple, with no Wi-Fi or phone signal. The place was charming but missed some essentials like an oven, kettle, and proper bed. It was so small that we practically lived on top of each other, especially with the open toilet. After a while, even the nightly mouse visit felt like part of the family, and the chickens next door gave us a rustic wake-up call every day. Oddly, I didn’t mind being offline—it forced me to focus whenever I was connected.

Our neighbor seemed initially frustrated with Cosma roaming around and occasionally chasing her chickens, but eventually, she softened.

On the last day, just before our flight, we realized M.’s wallet was missing. It felt like he wouldn’t be able to fly, but after sorting out the necessary papers with the embassy and local authorities, we managed to board. Saying goodbye was emotional; Los Llanos and El Paso felt like a tiny home, and for the first time, I’d connected deeply with a place. I knew the regulars at the local café, had my routines, and fully embraced the slower pace without feeling guilty.

 

HASTA LUEGO!!!! 🌕🌌🪐